A Creator's Touch [How to make anime/manga]

[WTFOG]

Let me start by saying to everyone who will give a look at this topic "hello".

I was looking all over the forum, but couldnt find a topic with a sort of tutorial for making nice manga/anime for beginners and pro's. So i thought it would be a good idea to start a topic what will gather all kinda tips and truc's for everyone who wants to draw their own'images.

So now i have explained what will be in this topic I will give some hints about what u can give some information of.

- drawing techniques
- drawing tips ( how to learn or improve your style of drawing )
- how to give your drawings a finishing touch to creat the "WOW"
- what sorts of equipment is neccesary or very usefull
- everything what u think is usefull ( could think of more )

Of course I am a beginner myself and cant give some usefull tips myself, so I invite anyone who want and knows more about it to tell about it

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I hope we can help each other and if there is already a long forgotten topic with the same subject plz say it and post the link. Maybe if i got time ill put information of it in this topic ( would be nice to creat a giant topic, never worked out )
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cya around, Wtfog

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I'll post some nice links below gathered from sources given from posts on this forum...

Mangarevolution
Some popular tutorials are from the site given above are:

Oekaki Tutorial

How to Draw Heads

How To Draw Heads 3/4 View

How to Paint Hair

Oekaki Tutorial

How to Draw Cute Characters

How to Color An Ass: Neolucky Style!

Eye Guide by Jakuu

Coloring In Photoshop

Cellshading Like Zammies

Drawing the Manga Eye: a Brief Guide

some more

Anime.darkpact

Howtodrawmanga

Mangapunk

Omu.kuiki

Polykarbon

Anikc.iedi

Artcorner

Kabukiyasha

Bakaneko

some usefull resources also given at the Forum Rules , which i saw right after starting this topic

Best kind of pen for outlining pictures?

How can I get a professional looking CG?

How to CG hair?

How to draw anime hair?

How to draw anime/manga characters?

Inking

Niti's Coloring Tutorial

Shading with Photoshop

The art of digital anime drawing. How?

Which tablet?

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[felix]

There have been several topics already... actually.
Vote for this topic to get stickyed.
-------------------------------------------
http://forums.animesuki.com/showthread.php?t=41074
http://anime.darkpact.com/list.php
http://www.howtodrawmanga.com/tutorial.html
http://www.mangapunk.com/tutorials
http://omu.kuiki.net/class.shtml
http://www.polykarbon.com/tutorials/index.htm
http://anikc.iedi.com/index.php?opti...id=7&Itemid=35
http://artcorner.org/tutorials/index.shtml
http://www.kabukiyasha.net/tutorials.php
http://www.bakaneko.com/
--------------------------------------------
Also.. , Read the Rulez

[Zero Shinohara]

Oh crap. I didn't intend on posting again. My bad.

Please delete this post, Mods.

[Zero Shinohara]

Zero's Drawing/Equipment Guide

Disclaimer: First of all, I'd like to start by saying that Drawing is no easy business. If you just want to draw on the back of your notebook to kill class time, then you will not benefit from this guide - or any guide, for that matter. If you want to succeed in drawing, you must practice it. Practice it everyday, whenever you can. Practice, practice and practice. This will get you to a point where you will know what you want to do before you do it, and will guide your way there. If you don't practice, you will get stuck. No matter how many lessons in drawing you get - there are things you can only teach yourself.

If you are willing to spend the time to improve, practice and learn, you will become successful. Although you might not have the same talent as professionals or people who create said "WOW" works of art, you will have experience and will very likely be able to match these individuals at some point. As to not emphasize this enough, practice, practice, practice. Practice makes perfect, goes the old saying, right?

Also, please note that I am in no way a professional artist. I am a hobbyist - I draw in Anime/Manga style for fun. There are things that I can tell you, things that I know from experience. But there are other things that I am in no way qualified to teach. I can't teach you how to draw - there are many guides out there that teach you how to do so already. And if you ask yourself "Well, all of them seem the same... why should I bother?", remember that if they do sound all the same, it's because they are based on conventions - practices that have been tested and put into practice, and that have produced solid results. Like they say, you can only begin in the beginning, so don't rush and jump ahead of yourself. No matter what anyone says, you will not become a pro in two weeks.

I still have many things to learn myself. So please take the time to read, but if I show something I've made, refrain from posting "You suck". That really offends people. ( Never happened in AnimeSuki. Doesn't mean there aren't people there who can do this, right? )

Now, without further delay, let's see if I can get this thing done. Shall we?

Spoiler for Picture of some of my Materials. If your connection is slow, you might want to avoid this.Note that these are HUGE.:

1. Pens
2. White Ink/Liquid Paper
3. Mechanical Pencil Leads
4. Mechanical Pencils
5. Pencils
6. Erasers
7. Things you use to Shade ( Correct me on this, please. Don't know the name of that stuff. )
8. Will explain this later.
9. Ink
10. Bending Ruler
11. Model
12. French Curves
13. Rulers
14. Clipboard
15. Paper/Sketchbook

1) Preparation

• So, you say you never drew before? Alright. Let's get this done then.

First thing to do is get to a place where you won't be bothered every three seconds - drawing requires concentration, just like studying. And also make sure you have a set period of time to be drawing. Don't start now and leave in 15 minutes. You won't achieve results like this. Of course, I do know that not everyone has time to be sitting for two hours everyday, completely absent from the rest of the world - I myself don't. But try to do most of your drawing in conditions like these. I know from experience that whenever I sit down and say "I'm going to draw now", I usually feel less stressed and prone to nervous break-downs. Also, don't forget that your "workplace" is very important as well. Cluttered and dirty desks don't make for good studios. Try cleaning things up and setting your equipment around you beforehand. Saves time and gives you good skills for the future. You also might want to set some music. J-pop/Rock always sets me up for the mood.

The second thing you will profit from is getting some books that teach you to draw. Most books on drawing will get you started, and please, PLEASE don't make the assumption that just because you are drawing in Anime/Manga style, it means you shouldn't study how real people are drawn. You will profit the most from this when you want to play around with the human body in the future. If you don't study anatomy, you will get to a point where just observation will not do you much good. The human body is very complex - drawing it is very tricky and proportions will make a world of importance when you are ready to advance to the next level. Remember that Anime is, after all, just one of the many styles of drawing around. When you get bored of Anime, try drawing Animals or Landscapes - they will also help you along the way. Especially if you plan on making a comic/fanzine/manga/webcomic - you can't draw your character on a black background, right? And also pay attention to some of the skills you're taught at the base level - some of them are very very important and useful.

The third is getting the right equipment for the job. I will get into more detail about this later, but for now grab yourself some paper, pencil/mechanical pencil, an eraser and fasten your seatbelt. If you have a turbo installed, make sure you get a table with big enough air-bags so that you won't hurt yourself during head-banging sessions derived from the utter frustration.


( By this point, you're scared as hell aren't you? Don't worry, I just bite on weekdays and after tests. )

• Books

I am a criminal of choice: I download most of the books I have from the Internet, and there is a wide range of options available to you. While torrent batches dedicated to some of the greatest drawing books of all times have been released and you can find them pretty easily. However, I do NOT endorse this. I have already paid a price for piracy before, and it's not a sensation you'll like. So, your best bet is either buying your books or grabbing them at your local Library.

The Library is a pretty good place to start, because, well, you can borrow them for free. And even though I used to think there weren't books on drawing Manga available at the city Library system, there were. And a whole lof of them too. So check it out, you might find a lot of nice stuff.

Or you can take the other way around and look for free tutorials Online that are free for everyone to use. There are many, many places where you can get very nice, detailed tutorials, from people who really know their stuff. So check around, you might find some.

Although this is the only hyperlink I have, check:

MangaU

2) Locking and Loading

• I will go over materials in this section. So, get that budget set up. You'll need it.

1. Paper
   
   Yeah, you guessed it. Paper is the first thing I'm going to talk about. Why? Well, because, in theory, you can even draw in toilet paper. Now, you probably won't get the same results from using it compared to using a high-quality paper that is intended to be used for drawing. That's why.
   
   Paper tends to be a thing of choice, really. For many many years, I loved drawing on cheap copy paper. It's smooth and you can get away with it without problems. But the thing is, if you want to ink your drawing... Hmm, that's a no-no. Reason is the ink will run through. And because the paper is rather thin, chances are you will get smudges very easily. Copy paper usually runs at around 20LB, whereas a sketchbook intended for drawing can get you anywhere from 60 to 150LBs. This stands for Pounds per square Inch, so a higher value will give you heavier paper, which, in theory, should be thicker. So, if you plan on going easy at first, get yourself a cheap sketchbook. Try to avoid separate sheets of paper, since they tend to get lost easily and, this way, you will not be able to keep track of your progess.
   
   Nowadays, I personally like paper ranging anywhere from 50 to 80, although I still preffer the lighter end of the pick. Easier to carry around and tends to give you more sheets of paper for your buck. But again, this is a thing of choice.
   
   Now, size... it all depends, really. You can get large sketchbooks that can be a couple of feet long or small ones that you can carry around to almost everywhere. Each of them has its strengths and weaknesses, so read along.
   
   Large sketchbooks are great for very detailed and large drawings. You won't believe the amount of details you can add in one of those things. But the downside of them is... well, one, you can't scan your drawings. Second, they're hard to carry around and third, you might get used to drawing very big and, when you need to do something in smaller sheets of paper, you can find it very challenging. But if none of these seem a problem to you, go right ahead and get yourself some large sheets to practice on.
   
   Medium sketchbooks are, in my opinion, the best choice. They balance out the drawing space with carriability and weight, and you can also get a pretty good level of detail out of them. You can also discard sheets if you've overused them. They're cheap, anyway. Item 15 on the second picture shows the sketchbook I use.
   
   Small sketchbooks are best for practice sketchbooks. I say this because I have one of my own. I find them great to be carrying around wherever I go, and if you don't have the time to be paying attention to a delicate and "long" drawing you're doing in your medium sketchbook, then you can take it out and start scribbling. I also found it great to be drawing and practicing faces - Because the chances of getting a full-body picture in one of these is rather slim, I've largely dedicated this one solely for drawings of faces and heads. And it's because of this thing that today I am rather confident in drawing heads and expressions. Item 14 on the second picture shows this one.
   
   So, no matter what you choose for paper, be sure to pick something you're comfortable with. Just don't go ahead and get yourself Watercolor paper because that just won't work.
   
   
2. Pencils and Erasers
   
   For all I'm concerned, you can draw with some ink in your finger and be happy with it. But for the ones of us who don't like black nails, here's some info on pencils and erasers.
   
   Ah, pencils. Who hasn't used them? What's funny is that it's one of those things we use in everyday life but really don't know much about. Personally, I like mechanical pencils better - always have. But I do keep a set of pencils around, just in case. This, just like paper, is a "choose your weapon" kind of thing - you pick what you're most comfortable with. However, like it or not, you'll need to use pencils for shading. I'll get into it more a little bit later.
   
   Pencils are rather simple - just a graphite lead with a set hardness inside a wooden casing. You just just plug them into your pencil sharpener and voila, you have a great tool for creating. But if you don't use them right, man... you're screwed. Reason I say this is because using a pencil that is too hard for your style will leave heavy markings on the paper. And even though you can erase them, these marks will be there forever - so you should pay close attention to what you're doing. First thing you need to do is get a set of pencils. They run cheap, maybe a couple USDs for a set of ten or more, so it's really a nice thing to have. Make sure you get quality ones, though - cheap-ass pencils sometimes come with their leads damaged, which is very frustrating.
   
   Then, test them out for a while. Pencils have Two different types of hardness: Bs are for soft pencils, the type that leaves dark, heavy marks on the paper the first time you use them. Hs are hard pencils that take some time getting used to - but that work wonders once you're accustomed to them. Then there's the HB - The midpoint between both, which is the type of lead your everyday N2 pencil has.
   
   Personally, I like laying down my first strokes with an H-hardness pencil. I tend not to overdo on details while doing this, because it will leave marks on my paper, which will eventually get really messy once the drawing starts to take form. Other people like to start their drawings with a B or 2B pencil, which leaves dark strokes on the paper right at the start and doesn't damage the surface of the paper that easily. However, I have found that using a 2B at first will really get the paper full of smudges right from start, so I leave it for the final traces and stronger lines. Again, just get yourself used to the tools you use.
   
   But remember that, by definition, Hs are much better for fine detailing, whereas Bs are great for shading. So don't forget this, it will become useful in the future.
   Item 5 on my pictures above shows my set of pencils. There are others scattered, but they are the same as the ones in the package.
   
   Mechanical pencils follow the same rules as pencils - you choose which types of leads to use. However, there is a much narrower choice for mechanical pencils than there is for pencils. And you can't adjust the thickness of the leads, so that's another downside.
   
   On the plus side, you get a sharpened 'pencil' whenever you need it. And leads tend to be chaper than pencils themselves, so that's good.
   
   I personally use four to five different mechanical pencils on my everyday drawing adventures. Two of them are 0.3 fine points, with B and 4H leads. A technical 0.5Mechanical pencil with an HB lead, another one for 2B lead and a third with an H lead. I also tend not to have more than one lead inside at a time - talk about being picky, huh? Items 3 and 4 on the list show my mechanical pencils and leads.
   
   And finally... if you touch that pencil on your paper, you know you will eventually have to erase something. This is a fact of life - you can't run or hide from it. So, get fond of your eraser, treat it with care and it will repay it to you later.
   
   Of course a normal, 30-cent pink eraser off OfficeDepot can save your life here, but probably not for long. Cheap erasers tend to smudge your drawing and leave those awful pink/red-ish spots on it. They can also rip the paper right through if you use them too much. So do yourself a favor and spend the extra 60 cents for something that will last you long and do you much good.
   
   There are three widely available types of eraser. One is your everyday rubber eraser, the ones you probably use the most. These are great if you want to erase large chunks of your drawing, or the entire page for that matter. But be careful when erasing small spots - you might mess something up using them. And because they go cheap anyway, buy a nice brand with nice features to it. Personally I use a FaberCastell white eraser that doesn't leave dust ontop of your paper - this really helps, since you're not running your hands over your drawing that often, which helps to contain smudging by a great factor.
   The white eraser under number 6 shows this type.
   
   Kneaded erasers are becoming more and more popular among artists, since they act just like gum - you can take chunks off of them and mold them in whatever shape you want and still erase very effectively. The reason I don't use them very often is that the smell they throw around gives me subtle headaches ( I've been always allergic to these scents. ), so I try to use them only when I really need them. After a while the smell tends to recede a little, so that's not a huge problem. I've also heard they're great for shading, although I have't used that technique miself.
   The red/blue erasers under number 6 shows this type.
   
   Art-gum erasers are great for large sections of stuff that you want to remove. They erase well, are soft and tend to clean everything right off without marks, which is a big plus. However, they leave a lot of residue ( dust ), so constant cleaning is necessary with these. Like mentioned above, a lot of dust tends to make your drawing really smudgy because of the large number of times you have to run your hand over the paper to clean that dust off of it. So use it sparingly and you'll probably be fine.
   The brown/caramel eraser under number 6 shows this one.
   
   And finally, one of the most useful of them all: the erasing pencil. Not only this mofo' helps you clean off some small details and/or things that go wrong somewhere along the way, it also becomes a great trimming tool. I say this because sometimes, especially when drawing faces, I tend to go a little overboard on one side or the other. Adding a little more lines and erasing the other ones precisely at where I want and I have myself nice facial lines that aren't distorted or too off from where I wanted them to be.
   This also works very well with hair - for those fine lines that always get out of control, you can just trim them and be happy with your work.
   The beige pencil with red tip under number 6 shows this.
   
   
3. Pen and Ink
   Yes. Ballpens aren't the greatest wonder in the world. If you are serious about drawing and giving your artwork that professional look, you need to get some hardcore pen skillz.
   
   First, yes. You can leave your drawings in pencil and never bother with them. You can also publish your Manga in pencil, like many doujinshi artists do. However, to do that requires a lot of skill with the pencil - shading, highlights and what-not have to be done manually with the pencil. There are no tones in pencil drawing, or at least, not that I know of. So, getting used to finishing drawings you really like with a pen can really be a good skill for the future.
   
   Now, ink can be tricky. Unlike the pencil, where you can just use an eraser to correct your mistakes, pens are permanent. You can correct them using white ink, but it's never going to look the same as before. Rule of the thumb is: If you can't do long, consistent lines without mistakes or shaking like you're about to die, try to take pen and ink with a grain of salt. If you're one of those people who can do a straight line right out of your head and have not a single issue, go right ahead. Grab a pen and start creating.
   
   Although, like all of the other materials, choosing your pen is a choice-based decision, I have found that nothing works like a good, old-fashioned fountain pen. And believe me, I've tried a lot of pens before - Technical pens, markers, Sakura pens and all. And I never had the same results from when using a fountain pen. So just try some of them up. You'll eventually find what works for you.
   
   Sakura Pens are pretty useful - you don't need a bottle of ink beside you all the time, and they aren't as messy as fountain pens. The good - or bad - thing about them is that they create very uniform lines, with little difference between stroke width. That can be useful when drawing hair and eyes, especially if you're using a very fine point, like 0.05 or so. I recommend them for the beginner, since you don't need to perform maintenance on them and everything. Another downside I've experienced with these pens is that the ink they use seems to run a lot on the paper. Although I just might be nitpicking in here, I really like crisp solid lines on my final art, so I tend to leave these pens to fill in larger areas.
   The Beige pens and gray pens under number 1 shows these.
   
   Technical pens are next. For a long time, I thought these were the next Messiah. I just loved them - crisp and very, very fine lines, perfect for shoujo-style drawing. Hair was just a breeze to do with them, and details came out perfect. However, these things are VERY costly - One Rapidograph pen goes for around 25 USD. So having a set of them can easily cost you over a hundred dollars. Another bad thing is that they need constant maintenance. You always have to be cleaning them, especially if you use them very sparingly. ( I broke both my technical pens because of this :\ ). However, like the Sakura pens, the nib you get is the line-width you get. If you want fine, solid lines, this is definitely the way to go. Just be careful - they break easily.
   The white and black Rapidograph pens under number 1 show these.
   
   Ball-point pens are next. I personally don't use them for drawing, nor have I ever used them to draw. But some people say they're good enough, and even though it's not my style, I believe them. Reason being is that ballpoint pens are rather easy to control - they roll easily on the paper and if you tend to draw quickly, they won't slow you down like any of the other types. They are easily available wherever you can find stationary material, so that's another plus. And they come in different sizes too, so you can have a 0.3-0.5 and 0.7 nibs for whatever the task is. Because there's such a wide variety of them, you'll really have to pick whatever works for you by yourself. Just try some out and see what you can come up with.
   
   Fountain pens are probably the most popular among manga artists. The wide variety of pen nibs available and the low maintenance they require is a huge plus, perfect for people who draw for a living and can't be losing much time with maintenance. Besides the fact that you can have many of these things for a very cheap price. Nibs go around for what, 3-4 bucks for maybe five or six nibs? So it's really a good thing to get used to them - cheap materials, who doesn't like that?
   Now, I can't teach you all there is to these pens because I really don't know everything. What I can tell you, though, is that the G-pen nib is widely accepted as a nib more intended for Shonen Anime - thicker lines and more freedom of movement, typical of action-packed series. The Maru pen, in contrast, works just great for thin and controlled lines, which are great to draw cute shoujo-style characters. However, the Maru is hard - very hard. I personally can only draw with it in one direction. But it also works well for landscapes, buildings and etc. The Kabura pen is around the midpoint between both. It's a rather flexible pen that produces lines based on how much pressure you apply to them, so it's good if you can control yourself. You got a lot of freedom with this one, so that's pretty good.
   
   There are various types of nibs around, and so you might have to get used to what's available around you. The pen-holder also plays a part in here - get something that feels comfortable in your hand. Some artists strap rubber bands around their holders - this helps if you're experiencing slippage. But from experience, that is very rare. So take your time when choosing this. It's not the type of thing you will get overnight - it takes practice and the willingness to open up to new techniques and try them out for a while. So do it, you can only benefit from it.
   The pens under number 1, to the right of the picture, are fountain pens. The nibs are inside the plastic container.
   
   So, you think we're done with pens, right? Nope, not yet.
   What happens when you get those "Crap, I messed up" moments? No, you don't call the 4chan extermination team. You grab a little liquid paper and pull out a large amount of patience.
   
   I personally like using the striped versions of white-out more than the liquid, because I don't need to wait for the ink to settle before using the whitening pen. But you gotta be careful with them - small details are hard to cover without messing other things up, so I tend to use it in large areas. Secondly, they might be wider than you need, so having a large whiteout patch in your drawing doesn't feel very good ether.
   
   So, your other choice is either a white-ink pen or the liquid paper version of it. Now, there're many types of these, and I won't go over all of them. You need to find out what works best for you here. The only thing I suggest is testing them out beforehand. Reason being that some of them dillute the black ink and mess everything up with a mix between black/white ink and, trust me on this, you won't like having it over your drawing. So try them out and see what you can come up with. I have yet to see a bottle of white ink available around, but if you know a technique to get rid of these rogue lines, definitely give me a buzz.
   The items under number 2 on the pictures show these.
   
   
4. Rulers and Drawing aids.
   
   If you aren't a geometry genius, you will probably have to pick some of these up. Read up! Rulers are the offsprings of science, the most powerful tools in trigonometry and will give you a nice kick whenever you want to create straight - curved or whatever - lines.
   
   Straight rulers are your everyday school ruler - they have markings and will help you out in drawing straight lines and will be very very useful when drawing with perspective. Now, you really have many choices on this one. You can cut yourself a piece of wood, grab a chopstick or use the back of one of your pencils as a ruler. But trust me, if you need to be doing straight lines quite often, you will want a long and reliable ruler. In the pictures, I have two types of straight rulers - one is an alluminum ruler with a cork base - use this with care, it can smudge the drawing. But it's also very useful when drawing with a pen - the cork base lifts the ruler itself above the paper, so the edges of the ruler don't touch either the paper or the pen. If you get ink on your ruler, prepare yourself for oblivion. The other type is an acrylic 12-inch engineering ruler. This one is particularly good for perspective, since the ruler itself has many straight lines throughout the acrylic surface - not only you can see through and see where you're going, you can use these lines as a basis to check if you're really doing it the way it's supposed to be.
   These are a must-have for every artist. I will teach how to take them off of the paper to prevent smudging later, so keep reading.
   The rulers in 13 illustrate these.
   
   French curves are particularly useful if you have a lot of curvy details in your drawing. Again, these are basic tools that every artist should have, since they are useful for a number of things. I won't go into much detail about them since they're pretty straightforward as the pictures illustrate. They tend to be a little expensive, but are definitely worth the investment.
   The blue curves in 12 show these.
   
   Maleable rulers are always useful. Although the french curves are sturdy, they don't provide you with the infinite possibilities that the flexible ruler has. You can bend it, curve it, hell, you can even pass your Boy Scouts knits test with it. It's that flexible, and it won't leave you alone when your french curves fail to help you. One downside is that they tend to have "wrinkles" on them - Unless you prepare them with extreme care, you won't get perfect lines without a few bumps here and there. It's also hard to get the same shape over and over. So, rule of the thumb here is: If the french curve helps you, use it. If not, take this out of our arsenal and put her to the test.
   Ps.: Depending on how large you draw, I would suggest getting a 12'' instead of a 24'' one. Reason is that the larger one is hard to manipulate and is quite heavy.
   Number 10 on the first picture shows this.
   
   Clipboards are pretty nice to have, especially if you tend to use transparent paper to trace overyour drawings once you finish them. This is pretty useful if you're afraid you might damage your original drawing if you use pens with it. The clipboard keeps everything in its place so you can relax. I've also used tape in the past, but it's a pain to remove it. So just make sure you get a clipboard with a strong grip so you drawings don't move away from one-another. The material you chose is up to you, although I like opaque colors because it doesn't let light shine through it, thus sometimes playing tricks on your mind. ( Picky, eh? )
   Number 14 on the second picture shows my clipboard.
   
   A Model is rather useful on your beginning stages. Reason for this is that the model moves just like the human body, giving you a nice idea of how to draw the position you want. Now this is also something of choice - I personally never used a model in any of my drawings. Reason for that is their movements are rather limited - you can't get most of them in a sitting position or laying down. So it's really just something I have laying around to impress my friends.
   Number 11 on the pictures show this.
   
   Having a pad to put your wrist over is a great idea. If you're like me, the type of guy who's all over the drawing with hands and what-not, using one of these helps contain smudges by a large factor. When you draw, your hand will eventually have to touch the paper, and when this occurs, the moisture in your skin will either get the paper yellowed or dissolve the pencil lead and smudge like crazy. So think about this. If you experience a lot of smudging on your artwork, get one of these. Mine is just a 4x2 foam pad that I got at an Art-supply store. It's originally indended to be used as a doorknob sign, but I cut the door hole off and made myself quite a nice tool. You can use all kinds of things in here. Styrfoam, cardboard... use your imagination.
   Item 8 on the first picture shows this.
   

Edit: Okay, I got down some more stuff. Next thing is electronic devices that might be used for drawing, stuff like tablets, software and etc.

[WTFOG]

Originally Posted by Cats

There have been several topics already... actually.
Vote for this topic to get stickyed.
-------------------------------------------
http://forums.animesuki.com/showthread.php?t=41074
http://anime.darkpact.com/list.php
http://www.howtodrawmanga.com/tutorial.html
http://www.mangapunk.com/tutorials
http://omu.kuiki.net/class.shtml
http://www.polykarbon.com/tutorials/index.htm
http://anikc.iedi.com/index.php?opti...id=7&Itemid=35
http://artcorner.org/tutorials/index.shtml
http://www.kabukiyasha.net/tutorials.php
http://www.bakaneko.com/
--------------------------------------------
Also.. , Read the Rulez

ye something i saw right after finishing this topic however it might be a good idea isnt it to make a new one with all things renewed and pushed to the front again isnt it

btw whats with the sticky stuff ?

Originally Posted by Zero Shinohara

Zero's Drawing/Equipment Guide

NO, I'M NOT DONE. But it's 11:49 and I am in no way, shape or form apt to be staying up any longer.
I will finish this as soon as I can, but for now, just read what's already there.

Good luck.

this i cant say more then genius.. this are where we/I are/am looking for thank you very much and i beg you to complete it

ye downloaded a guide myself too.. learning a bit from it and maybe gonna spend more and more time into drawing.. we'll see

[Zero Shinohara]

Thanks, and yeah, I'll finish it... someday. Right now I have to come up with a program for a class and it's not gonna be fun.

But...dude, don't quote that thing, for the love of God. The topic's gonna be like hueg!

[WTFOG]

ye i saw lol u know i ll edit it a bit so it ll be smaller

finish it when u want maybe a tip/hint - put a list at the end with links for sites who have those materials u use

-update of the guide-
again absolute very usefull and i can't convince u about how much i appreciate it really helps a lot..
I already bought some products I need to use for drawing.. like a nice set of pencils from H3 to B6..some nice paper...a good eraser... and I will buy some more in future when i see i want them
The next part where u gonna write about is interresting because i bought a tablet
This one
I bought it to try it and have stil 12 days to eventualy return it.. i kinda like it however my drawing at a programm like paint really sucks with it. Lines for hair etc arent possible without al kinda not-wanted-lines in it
So would really like to read the next part ..

lol, hear me do the easy talking

btw i am using the tablet a bit, and i see i cant draw anything with it.. maybe even worse then with the mouse.
I tried to sketch over a other painting and even that looked worse.. u know the parts that were on the real drawing were absolutely round but on the computer they were bad... very bad

I can even make a good circle with it.. cant make it in reall too good but then it looks like one.. on the computer..

maybe its because of my tablet.. not wacom .. trust cheap one.. link above

[Zero Shinohara]

Well, the only thing I understood from that website are the tablet dimensions and I've gotta say: DUDE, what an awesome tablet size. It's got almost eight centimeters more than my 6x5 Wacom. If it works right, it's a pretty good buy.

Besides that, the Resolution on that one isn't bad either. Probably better than mine. However, since it IS an "Alernate" hardware, I'd be a little wary of buying it before knowing the right specs.

I say this because I've heard some of these tablets don't come with good pressure sensitivities. But that doesn't seem to be your problem, so the only things I can think of are driver issues, or the fact that the tablet is not calibrated to your system.

What I suggest doing is seeing if you've got the newest drivers for your OS, even more so if you're using Vista - It's known to have problems with certain hardwares and drivers. Second is seeing if it's that you're just not accusomed to the tablet. It took me a few months to get used to it and how the pen slides so much faster in it than on the paper. I had to get a lot of practice with that.

And also, Paint isn't the best of programs to be drawing in. Try getting OpenCanvas or a trial version of Photoshop to test it with. Anyway, keep us posted on what you find.

[WTFOG]

ok.. thats a whole lot to take care of.

I got the newest drivers however, I got a stupid version of windows ( a cracked verions, totally ripped so everything drives very light.. just a short solution till I will buy my new computer after exams )

I bought the tablet at a store to review it for myself because i can still bring it back ( got now still 8 days left to bring back ) so i just wanted to test it a bit, you know

But i found my problem i think. If u hold a pencil, dont u hold it kinda weird so it's not linear to to the paper/tablet. A bit diagonal. Now if i do it like that, then my paintings are real bad however if i hold the pencil in a not natural way.. as vertical as possible then it goes better. Now i wonder if that's normal because it sure does drown the comfort. Behind that all i think i am indeed not yet customised to it

[DraGnaR]

Originally Posted by WTFOG

ok.. thats a whole lot to take care of.

I got the newest drivers however, I got a stupid version of windows ( a cracked verions, totally ripped so everything drives very light.. just a short solution till I will buy my new computer after exams )

I bought the tablet at a store to review it for myself because i can still bring it back ( got now still 8 days left to bring back ) so i just wanted to test it a bit, you know

But i found my problem i think. If u hold a pencil, dont u hold it kinda weird so it's not linear to to the paper/tablet. A bit diagonal. Now if i do it like that, then my paintings are real bad however if i hold the pencil in a not natural way.. as vertical as possible then it goes better. Now i wonder if that's normal because it sure does drown the comfort. Behind that all i think i am indeed not yet customised to it

I got a trust A4 size tablet and all i can say it sucks

yes i also did find out that if i hold the pen a normal way ( it will not draw the line,s good WHY i don't know

but hold a ( ruler on the tablet and move whit the pen next 2 it up and down / left and right ) u will see that tare is not 1 line but the position shifts a bit left and multiple line,s close 2 gather )

but wen u hold the pen vertical ( straight up ) the line,s are pretty much perfect )

i don't know if this is normal whit tablet but it kinda sucks )

the pressure sensitivity is really not bad and works well )
but if u cant draw straight line,s its kinda fucked )

But then again the tablet is not bad 4 collaring )

if the wacom tablets don't have this problem ( i recommend bringing it back and getting a wacom tablet ( but i doont know anything about wacom tablets XD ( all i know is a have given up drawing whit my trust a4 tablet ( bought it second hand 20 euro so i don't care

http://www.morecomputers.co.uk/extra.asp?pn=14070 ( link )

looks and sounds pretty cool ( and cheap XD ) but i think wacom is better 4 what i did hear and if u intend 2 draw on the p.c i don't think a trust tablet is 4 u ( but then again this is my personal findings XD and i doont know shit if its normal ore not ( i think the point of the pan is 2 big ( and thats why it has problems if u hold the pen normal ! )

[WTFOG]

indeed you write down the exact problem i have with it. I really cant draw if i have to hold my pen like that.. hope its not normal :P ill leave tablets for now, gonna practise more on paper

[Zero Shinohara]

Well, just to give my two cents in here, my table doesn't have any problems with drawing at an angle. You should really check on that. You can also go back to the store, replace it for another one and check to see if also has that problem. Trust me, you'll want something with which you can draw like you do on paper. If not, then what's the point of buying a tablet, right?

[WTFOG]

i totally agree and i ve already done what you said.. will leave tha tablets for now and i am waiting at the finish of your beautiful guide :P

[WTFOG]

Hey zero, i know that this topic is going backwards with popularity, but i am still looking sometimes for that update of yours hope you'll finish it one time

plz lol tx

wtfog

[Zero Shinohara]

Yeah, sorry it's taking so long to finish it up. The problem's that I got caught in the maelstrom of final week, so a lot of projects/research papers/speeches and tests were due, and I just didn't have the time to do anything else.

I'll get back to working on it as soon as I finish a 10-pager that was due last week. But don't worry, I'll get to it eventually.

[WTFOG]

Yes tx mate no haste or stress